A rainy day in Toledo


Greetings!

Who knew torrential downpours existed in Spain? Well, of course they do, but not to the extent of today’s mini-monsoon. Today, our seminar group joined up again to take on the town of Toledo, just an hour south of Madrid. I’ve heard many wonderful things about this town, which makes it a shame that rain had to ruin what expectations I had. Regardless, it was a fun, water-logged day.

Before Madrid was a bustling metropolis, Toledo (considered a Roman city) was the capital of the territory of Spain. It was a very religious city–home to the Moors (who left behind unique mosques) and the Christians, who took it from the Moors during La Reconquista in 1085. Now, the city is loaded with both mudejar (Muslim) and Christian influence. Narrow, ancient streets, cobblestone steps and towering apartments easily made me feel like I had stepped back in time.

However, these streets also made for some awesome waterfalls and mini-wading pools. I didn’t get many pictures of what is sure to be considered flooding if the town wasn’t on a hill…but just know that I’ve never been so happy to see a pair of nice, warm socks.

This gorgeous cathedral (which has no name) and a stunning El Greco painting finished off a rainy, cold, wet, slippery but interesting afternoon.





The past two weeks of my life in Spain in pictures

Hello everybody! It’s Maya. I’m still alive (shocking, I’m sure), despite not constantly updating this blog. We’ve settled into somewhat of a routine here, so while I’ve been traveling around the city and seeing new places almost daily, it never seems like enough to warrant an update. That said, I now present to you a huge montage of pictures from the past few weeks!

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A few weekends ago, I discovered Mercado de San Miguel in Sol, outside of Plaza Mayor. It’s a huge food market, where you can either buy food stuffs to take home and prepare, or you can buy whatever food you want in he market and eat it there. We ended up going to this place called Museo de Jamon (literally translated, the ham museum) for lunch and doubling back here for dessert. My friend Sunghwan ended up getting these churros and chocolate…I’m not crazy about this dessert, though it is pretty good, extremely decadent, and a Spanish favorite.

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…And then we went to the historic Plaza Mayor. Architect Juan de Herrera, who also designed el Escorial, turned the square from a marketplace into a gorgeous (albeit extremely touristy) destination hundreds of years ago. If you go there nowadays, you’re likely to get accosted by a bunch of mediocre street performers while taking pictures with your friends in the middle of the square.

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I’m in love with the neighborhood Malasaña. It’s an older neighborhood, but it’s sort of bohemian/has the feel of a lower class, youthful area. There’s lots of coffee shops and record shops and even a cupcake store. Anyway, I found Toma Cafe with a bunch of friends on Kathryn’s birthday. The walls are adorned with odd decor, including the bikes of the baristas. Sort of feels like a cross between Recess and Mello Velo. I dig it.

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The Gregorio Marañon metro stop at siesta time. Madrid’s metro system is the nicest/cleanest of any I’ve ever used (sorry, New York/Boston/Philadelphia/DC).

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Visi swears this is the neighborhood cat, but it’s always standing outside our door meowing in the morning, so I’m fairly convinced otherwise.

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Plaza de Toros in the neighborhood Ventas. I’m seeing a bullfight here in a couple weeks.

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Went to Reina Sofia (an art museum by Atocha) and saw Guernica, my favorite work of art probably ever. It was even more impressive in person than I’d imagined. Also, all of my clothing is black.

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Scarf game is on point so far.

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Retiro park might be one of my favorite places in Spain so far. If I ever need a break, this is where I go.

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Thought I was going to die of happiness when I found a falafel/greek place with Kathryn in Sol a few weekends ago, just after apparently narrowly missing a huge anti-austerity demonstration there. More on those later.

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Chalet 12, home, house of Visi and Tito, etc. I’m really content with my living situation here. Our neighborhood is beautiful.

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Our host sister Vita works for Hola magazine, and brought us home an English copy of it last week to read.

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Gran Via is the Broadway of Madrid. It’s gorgeous, but it’s also a popular place for pickpocketers. If you don’t lose a bunch of money that way, you inevitably will once you hit the shopping areas there.

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Crepes and chocolate shakes for cheap in Tribunal. The Tribunal/Fuencarral area is quickly becoming my favorite area here.

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The spanish REALLY love don quijote and cervantes. I thought this was a stations of the cross type thing hanging on Tito and Visi’s back patio, but it’s really a retelling of the story of Quijote. They have a Quijote painting in their living room, too. I can’t think of an American literary hero that is remotely as sought after and well-known in the USA.

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I work in the spanish-speaking SU Abroad office a couple days a week. Everyone who works there is super nice and I actually think it’s helping me speak better (hard to believe when I have such an outstanding American accent, right?)!

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Oh yeah, and I’m seeing the Black Keys in November here. I don’t even care that it’s a reserved seat and I won’t be with my friends because I’ll be surrounded by Spanish-speaking Black Keys fans for a few hours, and that sounds okay with me.

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I finally went to el Prado yesterday and saw a bunch of Goya paintings. I’m not crazy about his Rococo period but his black paintings/2nd and 3rd of may paintings are fascinating. The architecture of the museum in and of itself is gorgeous.

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Went to my first Real Madrid game last night! They played a small FC called Millionarios and won 8-0. Spanish people seem to love soccer even more than Americans love football or baseball.

So, that’s about it for the picture update on my life. In more sobering news, President Rajoy just passed the 2013 budget (potentially featuring a lot more austerity cuts, which would turn the welfare state into a privatized model more similar to the US) and people here are real mad about it. I think our host families are slightly more detached from it since they’re older and more affluent, but young people (the unemployment rate for young people 18-35 is 50%. Think about that.) took to the streets on September 25th (called here and in Athens, Greece “S25”) and protested the government’s austerity measures. Here, it turned violent, with a lot of police brutality, arrests, and injuries. I walked by another protest yesterday on my way to the Prado, with people calling for the same things in front of Parliament. More Metro strikes have been happening recently, and I don’t see an end to the protests since conservative Rajoy will likely not ease off the austerity measures any time soon. It’s so, so heartbreaking to have discovered this beautiful country, only to see it be ripped to shreds by its own poor economy. History definitely repeats itself in Spain, a country that has historically bankrupted itself time and again. While it’s really hard to see people suffer here (though not as much as this rather sensationalized New York Times article makes it seem), this is also a fascinating time to be studying here, and I certainly don’t regret at all coming here to study.

Until next time, amigos!

xoxo
maya

¡Viva Real Madrid!



Chicos y chicas,

Tonight, Maya and I attended our first Real Madrid game with a couple friends. We got lucky because the game was pretty low-key (meaning the opposing team was not very good), so we were able to score cheap tickets. We sat a bit high up, but smack dab in the middle of the field. It was a GREAT view, as you can see from my photos. Real Madrid ended up winning 8-0, not kidding. In fact, the game was so easily won that Cristiano Ronaldo didn’t even step on the field. I guess you could say the team was saving its secret weapon for a tougher game.

The game itself, however, was spectacular. Although less people were there because of who they were playing, the environment was so cool. Being able to see it from up above just added to the experience. There was some pre-game build-up outside the stadium, cheers from the stands and even a WAVE! That’s right, a human wave managed to make it around the stadium at least four times–that’s an accomplishment.


I definitely plan on attending a larger game. Imagine the chaos that would ensue if Real Madrid took on a bigger team? I may not be the biggest soccer fan, but the passion and excitement is what I love the most. It’s obvious that during this unbelievably scary time for Spain, citizens rally around this team. It’s a constant source of joy for some, and lets others forget the problems that wait outside the stadium doors.

In other news, fall has most definitely arrived in Spain. The day after the first day of fall, the temperature dropped and Maya and I were pulling out the long leggings. It’s chilly but we don’t love living here any less, I assure you.

Night,
Maddy

My life: The only jersey cheap enough for my budget was a size XL…

A little Instagram art

Hey guys!

Maddy again. This time, I’m back with a small collection of Instagram photos I managed to take since landing in Spain. They’re not much (again, Maya is the Instagram pro), but I figured I’d post them here to make sure you guys are really seeing everything we’re doing. Some of them are artsy, some touristy. It’s all for the scrapbook later, right? Enjoy more Spanish sights and sounds, courtesy of my handy-dandy iPhone.

Hopefully, Maya will post some of hers! I promise, they’re all beautiful. Instagram has a knack for making anything look super chic. Call me a fan.

My new favorite Spanish dish

Attention loyal readers,

After about a month of traveling all over the north of Spain and living contently in the industrial jungle that is Madrid, I can officially declare the dish/plate/meal I love most about this country. It took weeks of trying different things, opening my palette to an exciting adventure in the land of sweet and salty, but I did it. And what I’m sure is much to your disappointment, it’s not churros y chocolate.

What is it, you ask? Tomate rallado, or, grated tomato.

Remember this photo? The red stuff smeared atop the bread is tomate rallado. It’s literally tomato that has been grated and smushed and pulverized to a delicious pulp. Mix it with a dash of olive oil and salt and you have the greatest sandwich topper EVER. I’m not kidding, you can slap this glorified tomato sauce over anything and I’d eat it. The flavor is not overwhelming but more a delicious side note to whatever meat I choose to eat it with (usually jamon serrano).

Here’s one more Internet photo to make you wish you were me, surrounded by this fresh vegetable-y goodness.

In other news, we apologize for the lack of photos/news. Maya has been taking lots and lots of gorgeous Instagram photos. I hope she shares them with you! She’s good about Instagramming her life here.

Best,
Maddy

Seeing the sights

Dear readers,

I am happy to announce that our first week of classes are over and that they went very well! So far, I’m genuinely interested in all the subjects I’m learning about: Spanish history, pop culture, women’s history, business spanish and travel writing. I think learning about these topics and then actually seeing or experiencing them in person is so incredible. I think that’s why I’ve remained so interested, because everything I learn can be applied to what I do that very afternoon! Or this could just be that honeymoon period where I love all my classes until I get assigned my first essay.

Anyway, onto the cool stuff: photos of Maya and I’s Friday afternoon. I still hadn’t seen Plaza Mayor or Mercado de San Miguel–both touristy but much-needed spots I needed to experience! So, Maya and I hit up these two classics, stopping for lunch in San Miguel to try some delicious burgers and flavored ice tea (I had pear and guava).

Plaza Mayor is definitely touristy. There are enticing performers on almost every corner looking to both scare you and ask for money. We didn’t dare try eating there because we knew the prices would be expensive. But it was still amazing to see a place of which I had only seen pictures. Hopefully I can go back for longer and people watch.

 

 

 

Before we headed there, however, we stopped by the Plaza de Toros, where all the bullfights take place. Nothing was going on, but we wanted to check it out and pose for a picture in front of the running bulls. Are we embarrassing Americans, yet?

 

And so begins another week of classes, but I’m already looking forward to the weekend. Oh, Spain…

Best,
Maddy

This weekend: a photo essay

Hello!

Maya’s and my first weekend in Madrid was pretty chaotic, to say the least. It was stressful but also pretty freakin’ amazing. Public transportation may have gotten the best of us, but we definitely got the best of the club scene. Two nights and two totally different clubs made for a wicked weekend. You all may think my taste in music is bad now, wait until a few more weekends pass–my entire iTunes library will be a dubstep/mashup/remix collection. For those who know of my love for Avicii…let’s just say I’m never coming home (he is LITERALLY everywhere).

Needless to say, a lot of dubstep plus three hours of nonstop dancing plus two nights made me one happy girl.

While I couldn’t (and didn’t want to) bring my camera to las discotecas, I do have some other photos of beautiful sights and experiences I was lucky enough to have. We checked out Madrid’s Fashion Night Out, got an in-depth tour of Retiro Park and experienced some yummy foods.

Madrid’s Fashion Night Out. Not much to see–it was very crowded and hot. Still cool to experience though!

The always-beautiful Retiro Park.

Some wicked cool performers.

The lake where people can rent paddle boats.

A rose garden within Retiro Park.

El Palacio Cristal. It was once used as a greenhouse to take care of flowers/plants from the Philippines when it was under Spanish rule.

Horchata–a popular Spanish drink made from chufa. It tasted a bit like rice pudding.

And finally, today, I had my first experience with Madrid’s take on churros y chocolate. I had first tried the famous dessert in San Sebastian but Madrid really knows how to do it. My friend Sam and I went to San Gines Chocolateria, one of the more famous places to get your churro fix. Do I even need to describe the experience? The chocolate was thick, rich but not overly sweet. The churros were delicately crispy and retained their crunch even when dunked in the warm chocolatey goo. Sam and I had been aching to try these and our expectations were definitely exceeded.

Classes get under way tomorrow. I’m excited to get a real routine going. Wish us luck!

Best,
Maddy

Understanding Spanish Fashion

Greetings!

Our sincerest apologies for the lack of updates recently. With classes starting, it’s getting harder to explore every corner of this wonderful city. In my opinion, it’s just plain cruel to make students sit in a dark room when an entirely different world awaits outside. So, sadly, there isn’t much to talk about–except everyone’s favorite topic: fashion!

Tonight, Maya and I are attending Vogue Spain’s Fashion Night Out event–an amazing experience filled with celebrities, goodies, shows, beauty and of course, Spain’s undeniably chic style. We heard about it through our school newsletter and just had to sign up.

With this in mind, I figured I’d do a quick post (sans photos, sorry!) about things I’ve noticed people wearing on the streets. As many Americans know, European fashion in general is very free-spirited, colorful and fun. Older women will try younger looks, and they’ll wear heels almost everywhere! I’m hoping to snap a few photos of what I see tonight and post them later. Until then, here are things the people of Spain are wearing these days…

  • Brightly colored jeans–red, bright pink, mint, deep blue. I swear, these vibrant colors are the majority over plain denim.
  • Really short, ragged jean shorts–young Spanish girls love to wear these things, then dress them up with a ton of accessories. They’re crazy short, but for some reason they can pull them off.
  • Patterned paints–picture MC Hammer’s famous bottoms, then add some crazy animal print. These are everywhere.
  • Leather sandals–these are not your Target-brand sandals. I’ve seen nothing but dark, strappy leather pieces that look rugged and sexy.
  • Heels–if a woman isn’t wearing 5-inchers, she’s wearing 2.5. They’re on the metro, walking to work and everywhere in between.
  • Slender business shoes–men wear these whether they’re in business or not (at least the fashion-forward do). When in brown, they’re super casual.
  • Lots of accessories–bracelets mainly, of all different types.

In conclusion, you will NEVER see a pair of sweatpants in Madrid. Dressing well is just part of the culture here, and I’m happy to be a part of it. Hoping to get a better idea tonight during this Vogue thing. I’m so excited. Stay tuned for photos!

Best,
Maddy

Conquering the Madrid public transportation system

Hello, loyal readers!

Today was our first day of school! Okay, not really…today we had a bunch of orientation stuff as well as a make-up exam we were supposed to take this weekend as the culmination of our seminar. But it was our first day going to school (Perhaps this is a good time to apologize in advance for the lack of photos in this post). Our host family’s house (more on that later) is in a more residential area away from the center of the city, so in order to get to campus we have to take a bus (from the stop right in front of Tito and Visi’s house) to the bus/metro station at Avenida de America, and from there hop on a metro to get to the street our school, Instituto Internacional, is on. In all, the ride takes about 25 minutes, but that’s about as far as some other students have to walk, so it’s not too bad.

Though Visi and Tito’s youngest daughter Vita works at a magazine that’s literally steps away from our campus, she’s covering fashion week in Cibeles this week (Obviously) so instead of her coming with us to school, Tito took the liberty of dropping us off at school today. We got on the bus pretty easily, and it was empty, but there traffic entering the city is egregious (1.5 million people commute into the city every day, evidently). This was in part due to the fact that many Spaniards vacation at the end of August, so the influx could have been caused by people returning to work, but we ended up getting to the metro station with no trouble at all. There are about 10 metro lines that cover the city, and it’s actually really easy to figure out–way easier that the New York subway system or the DC metro. We bought our tickets pretty easily and got on the metro, met up with a couple of other girls from our seminar group, and said goodbye to Papa Tito for a few hours.

The metro and the bus systems here are so nice. They don’t smell like urine, they’re air conditioned, the buses have wifi (a prized luxury when you’re using your iPhone on airplane mode for four months), and the only thing you need to watch out for is the pickpocketers (As the SU Madrid center director Bobby explained to us today, Spain is on the brink of total economic failure/having to be rescued by the European Union and the unemployment rate hovers around 25%, which isn’t really helping the petty theft problem). Maddy and I figured out how to take the metro/bus back from campus tonight (and didn’t get lost once) and we were astonished by how clean the bus was, even at rush hour. They completely put the South Campus buses to shame. The only bad thing about the public transportation system is that it stops running at 1:30 in the morning, which is going to be a problem come weekends.

Anyway, that was probably the most exciting part of our day. But back to our host family: they’re great. Like, really, really friendly and interesting and generous. Last night we essentially had a four course meal for dinner (gazpacho, chicken and fries…apparently this is like a Spanish cuisine thing, patatas bravas with homemade aioli, and fruit for dessert), and we ate while Tito and one of his friends watched the Real Madrid game on TV. We talked to Visi and one of her friends about a bunch of stuff–school, home, our Spanish (they kept complimenting us on our linguist abilities, of which I am fairly sure I have almost none). It was a really good first night! Visi came downstairs to air-kiss us goodnight and to let us know we could shower whenever we wanted to. And today she had croissants with peach marmalade and coffee ready for us in the morning, and is doing our laundry now. I feel kind of guilty for not helping out around the house, but I don’t think she really wants our help, considering she hosts kids every semester.

We had some downtime this afternoon, so I went to our school’s cafe and ended up making a Spain bucket list. Enjoy!

xoxo
Maya

De la casa de Visi y Tito

Hey guys!

Maya and I are currently sitting in a special place–our official bedroom in the home of our host family! Yes, we have finally arrived at our new Spanish residency after days of traveling. You can now consider us the second-daughters of Visi and Tito. First impressions? They’re SO down-to-earth. They’re very open, talkative and accepting. They don’t know a lot of English but the barrier has not been a problem. We’re just excited to be in such a great place with such outgoing people. Plus, our proximity to a shopping mall and pool aren’t bad either.

So, while we get adjusted to these drastic changes, here’s what we did in the stunning city of Bilbao, the heart of Basque country, yesterday.

Bilbao was founded in 1300, but has grown to be quite a modern city. It takes a lot of its architectural inspiration from the French (their neighbors), but also features many works from famous international architects. Our morning consisted of a walking tour through parts of the city, during which our lovely tour guide Ricardo told us about the many buildings and their creators.

The most stunning part of Bilbao is the well-known Guggenheim museum of art. It’s loaded with beautiful works of modern art, but it’s the outside that made it stick out for me. It was designed by Frank Gehry, who’s style can be seen in other parts of Basque country. Check out the titanium plates and how they mesh with the European architecture around it. It was definitely cool to see.

And don’t forget the famous puppy-made-of-flowers that stands in front of it. SO cute–reminds me of Sparky back home.

After the Guggenheim, our group walked around and got lunch (eh). After, we headed back to our hotel along the river, passing by other gorgeous bridges and buildings. Upon our return, a 3-hour nap was in order (our first all week!).

Later, our seminar group had our last dinner together. It was definitely bittersweet. Our program leaders and professors have been nothing but encouraging, enlightening and hilarious throughout this entire trip. We can’t thank them enough for teaching us about Spain and what this beautiful country has to offer. Now that we’re in Madrid, we’re eager to get started and learn even more.

Until then,
Maddy

“Locks” of love